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Book tip: Everest – The First Ascent

This biography of Dr. Griffith Pugh is written by his daughter Harriet Tuckey. Pugh was a physiologist and is one of the early pioneers in the field of high altitude medicine. The book describes Pugh’s life, including his role during the successful Everest expedition of 1953 in which he took part. He contributed to the success by designing a large part of the equipment (tents, clothing, high altitude boots) and advising on acclimatization, diet, hygiene, and the oxygen- and fluid-intake. Further, the book covers the Silver Hut Expedition of which Pugh was the scientific leader. Together with a team of scientists he conducted research on high altitude physiology at 5800m on the Mingbo Glacier in the Everest region (1960-1961). It is a fascinating story for those interested in the science behind mountaineering.